Vero Espresso House
Eugene, OR
4/28/2013 — 3:30pm

I’ve been bouncing around the Pacific Northwest for a few weeks now, but today marks the event for which I initially justified my travels: the Eugene Marathon. My diligent training pays off and I finish the race in a personal best time, far exceeding my expectations. With my mission accomplished, I decide to treat myself to a celebratory cup of coffee before I leave Eugene. The same friend who suggested the Wandering Goat also recommended Vero, so I head on over.

The Vero Espresso House is just as the name implies: a large, yellow Victorian house serving traditional espresso-based drinks. Although they “proudly serve Stumptown” rather than roast their own beans, the owners have gone to great lengths to create a place of refuge. A giant wraparound porch seats dozens; a majority of them appear to be college students cramming for finals, holding private conversations, or simply soaking up some afternoon sun. Inside, an assortment of “antique” tables and chairs bear even more students. I explore Vero’s many rooms feeling as though I’ve stepped into a library; it is impressively quiet. A sign indicates a private meeting room upstairs may be reserved for a small fee. Everything — from the walls to the art to the furnishings — is colored with a carefully chosen palette of red, gold, green and brown.

I approach the counter and admire the enormous, immaculately kept La Marzocco espresso machine it supports, its brushed steel meticulously buffed and polished. A young blond takes my usual order in exchange for $2.50 while a pale barista with thick-rimmed spectacles (becoming of a hipster) pulls a few shots and pours my drink. The crema quickly separates as I carry the cup to a vacant table trying not to disturb the peace as I unpack my bag for a short stay. Other than some soft jazz playing above, I must be the greatest source of noise at this moment.

Brewed from Stumptown beans, my Americano looks and smells predictably thin and mild. A taste confirms this: bright, citrus tones on a light-bodied roast without a hint of bitterness. The brew tastes a bit weaker than the Americano I enjoyed at the real Stumptown in Portland, so perhaps it has been slightly underextracted; or perhaps my taste buds are dull following this morning’s demanding run. Regardless, for an afternoon coffee I am pleased with the result. Upon finishing the drink I bus the mug and snoop around a bit more noting the complete absence of merchandise for sale — bagels, beer and tea appear to be the only other options.

The Vero Espresso House encourages customers to come and stay awhile, a notion I genuinely appreciate in an age where quick customer turnover characterizes so many coffee shops. Granted the University of Oregon student body provides a generous base of potential clientele, they have capitalized well on this market opportunity and created an establishment akin to Star Life, my go-to haven as a student at the University of Washington, only on a much larger scale. Despite a slightly fancy, overdone feeling Vero elicits, I would certainly spend much time here if I were a Duck.

Wandering Goat Coffee Co.
Eugene, OR
4/27/2013 — 8:15am

For my first morning in Eugene I seek out the Wandering Goat, a local roastery located in Eugene’s northwest Whitaker neighborhood best known perhaps for its “hippie” tendencies. Next to an active railway in a rather indiscreet location I find the cafe and join a horde of morning regulars who have gathered for the cafe’s 8:00am opening. A queue forms and I take a seat, becoming an observer as two busy baristas manage the initial rush. One of my favorite albums, Deerhunter’s “Halcyon Digest,” plays from the beginning on a speaker hidden somewhere within this dark but spacious establishment. I’m already getting good vibes here.

The bright sun soaked patio seating fills quickly as customers receive their drinks and house-made bagels, granola and “goatmeal” (brilliant!). A garden in full bloom fills the air with incredible fragrance. Inside, I find my eyes drawn to an immense goat head of rusted, sculpted iron that oversees the dining area. Many well-worn tables and chairs provide seating options as do a row of barstools facing the street. A large window provides customers an intimate behind-the-scenes glimpse of the roastery and the kitchen, where a third employee appears to be rolling out fresh biscuit dough. Other than a few wood-panel prints on the walls and a small “sugar bar” in the room’s center, little else clutters up the space — no retail, no kitsch. I dig this simple approach.

The chalkboard menu advertises coffee brewed several ways including espresso, drip, pour over and cold brew. I order my double short Americano (for $2.25) and it comes served in a simple white mug with an attractive crema layer. I note a strong nutty aroma with noticeable cinnamon and chocolate notes. Its taste is rich and full-bodied with slight bitterness and a very subtle chalkiness. Given the lack of praise I’ve heard around Eugene’s coffee scene, however, this cup provides a pleasantly positive experience.

Eager to get outdoors and get some sun myself, I finish my cup rather hastily and make a few final observations. The Wandering Goat strikes me as a community and coffee-centric cafe. It thrives not on tourism or even Eugene’s burgeoning student population, but instead on a committed following of routine customers and the occasional stray goat like me who wanders off the beaten path and winds up here. The Wandering Goat pride itself on the quality of its coffee without being pretentious about it. My day is off to a wonderful start.

The Beanery
Corvallis, OR
4/26/2013 — 10:30am

My underwhelming experience in McMinnville leaves me with reduced expectations as I scour Corvallis for decent coffee. I’ve just wrapped up a short jog in the nearby McDonald Forest and downtown remains eerily quiet at this mid-morning hour. I locate the Beanery, just south of the main drag and a block west of the Willamette River, and decide to throw the dice. Home to Oregon State University, Corvallis isn’t exactly known for its coffee, but it is known for agricultural expertise.

Located on a street corner, the Beanery is a spacious establishment with high ceilings and open air stirred by a few old, steel fan blades strung from above. Many old oak tables and pew-like benches are strewn about the speckled, linoleum floor giving the shop a nice “broken-in” feel. The clientele appear to be a mishmash of older folks with a few college students mixed in. I step to a counter built behind an over-sized bakery case taking note of the lengthy menu cluttered with soups, sandwiches and the like, and order my short double Americano for $2.65.

While my shots are being pulled, I wander past the counter into a corner flanked on three sides by shelves piled high with merchandise. The Beanery brews Allann Bros. Coffee, an Oregon trademark since 1972 and appears to have expanded in recent years. I wonder how much of this expansion has resulted in an increased emphasis on retail. My drink is served in a signature Allann Bros. mug with a thick, bubbly crema on top and emits a rather strong chocolate and cinnamon aroma. I take a sip and process its very intense, powerful, full-bodied flavor. There is noticeable bitterness and subtle chalkiness to each subsequent swig. While for an organic roast it’s quite tasty, I deem the cup a bit bold for my preference.

The Beanery is a cafe in adolescence — it does much more than just coffee, but it continues to cater to (and apparently please) the local community. Business appears to be doing well seeing as an influx of customers fills the dining area and raises the ambient volume a few notches. The spring sun bakes the window by which I sit and, spying some sweet sidewalk seating, I drain my mug and head outside, my expectations exceeded.

Verdict: